“Like aïoli and bouillabaisse, couscous is a spectacular creation, a feast in itself.”

-Mireille Johnston, from The Cuisine of the Sun-

As the name suggests, this dish originated in North Africa. It made its way to Comps-sur-Artuby in Provence, where – for more than 130 years – it’s been a mainstay at the hotel Bain.

1 pound lamb shank, cut in cubes

2 large carrots, cut in 1” pieces

2 medium zucchini, cut in 1”pieces

3 medium yellow squash, quartered

3 medium turnips, peeled and quartered

3 small artichoke hearts, cut in half

½ cup onion, chopped

2 tablespoons shallots, chopped

1 tablespoon garlic, chopped

½ cup parsley, chopped

1 tablespoon Four Spice (blend of cinnamon sticks, peppercorns, cloves, and cumin)

½ tablespoon red chili pepper (powder or ground)

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 pinch each thyme, basil, rosemary, marjoram, cayenne pepper, ground black pepper, salt

1 whole bay leaf

2 quarts lamb stock or chicken broth

1 cup red wine

1 cup white wine

½ cup olive oil

Harissa sauce (optional)

In a large, heavy saucepan, sauté onion, shallots, garlic, and parsley in olive oil until translucent. Add lamb cubes and thyme, basil, rosemary, bay leaf, marjoram, cayenne, and black pepper and sauté until meat is half cooked (about 15 minutes). Add carrots and turnips and cook for 7 minutes or until the carrots are half cooked, then add the Four Spice, ground red chili pepper, and tomato paste and cook over low heat for 5 minutes. Pour in the stock (heated), add wine and bring to boil. Add squash, zucchini, and artichoke and cook until the artichoke is tender (about 20 minutes).

Traditionally, couscous grain is steamed in a couscoussière – a kind of double boiler with a perforated upper pot. You can make a workable substitute, using a sieve lined with a linen towel in place of the perforated upper pot. But why not keep it simple?

This method makes wonderful couscous:

Dissolve 2 tablespoons butter in 1 ½ cups of boiling water and add 1 cup of couscous. Stir and cover, then take off the heat and let it stand for 5 minutes. Before serving the couscous, fluff it with a fork. You can use broth instead of water to give the couscous a richer flavor.

Put the couscous on a plate. Put the vegetables and meat together in a bowl. Pour half the broth over the couscous, half in a bowl as a side dish. Dab harissa sauce on the couscous plate. Use caution – it’s hot. (Try a side dish of raisins and toasted almonds with this.)

Serves 4

Recommended Wines: Dry Rosé, Zinfandel, Côtes du Rho